Yesterday
Where are you putting that salad bowl? Its blocking the sandwiches! And move the glasses, would youOliver will be here any minute, and you know he likes plenty of space to wave his arms when he chats.
Victor fussed over the table, shifting crystalware about, almost knocking the forks off in his hurry. Gail let out a weary sigh, rubbing her hands on her apron. Shed been by the hob since dawn, legs aching like shed run a marathon, her back throbbing with that familiar pain just beneath the shoulder blades. But there was no time to complain. Todays the day the VIP guest was comingher husbands younger brother, Oliver.
Calm down, Vic, she said, keeping her voice steady. The table looks perfect. Just tell medid you get wholemeal bread? Oliver moaned last time we only had white, said hes watching his figure.
I did, I didWarburtons, seeded, just as he likes, Victor said, darting over to the bread bin. Gail, what about the roast? Are you sure its done? You know what hes like about foodeats in restaurants all the time, you wont impress him with a few meatballs.
Gail pressed her lips together. Of course she knew. Oliver, nearly forty, perpetually single, calling himself a creative artistin reality, scraping by on bits of freelance work and handouts from his ageing motherfancied himself a true connoisseur. Every visit from him was a test, and she always felt doomed to fail before it started.
I roasted pork in a honey-mustard glaze, she announced. Free-range, from the market, cost me nearly twenty pounds the kilo. If he doesnt like ittoo bad.
Theres no need for that, Victor grimaced. He hasnt been round in ages. He just wants a proper family meal. Please try, lovehes going through a rough patch. Finding himself.
Hes finding his wallet more like, Gail thought, but kept quiet. Victor adored his younger brother, believed in his genius, and defended him against any slight.
The doorbell rang at seven sharp. Gail whipped off her apron, checked her hair in the hall mirror and forced the routine smile to her lips. Victor was already flinging the door open, beaming like a polished teapot.
Ollie! Mate! About time!
Oliver stood on the step, looking rather dappertrendy coat hung open, a stylish scarf looped across his shoulder, a stubbly beard for a touch of ruggedness. He flung his arms wide for Victor to embrace, but only gave a perfunctory pat on the back in return.
Gails eyes went to his hands. Empty. Not a bottle of wine, not a cake box, not even a sorry bunch of supermarket flowers. Coming round after half a year, to a table worth a small fortune, and he brought nothing. Not even a treat for the kids, who, conveniently, were at Grandmas tonight.
Hello, Gail, he nodded, glancing round the hallway as he strolled in, not bothering with his shoes. New wallpaper? Looks a bit… NHS chic. Well, as long as you like it.
Evening, Oliver, she replied, keeping it polite. Wash your hands, will you? Herefresh slippers.
I didnt bring mine. Dont fancy catching something in shared onesIll make do in socks. The floors clean, eh?
Gail felt irritation brewing. Shed scrubbed those floors twice especially for him.
Clean, Oliver. Come to the table.
They settled in the sitting room. The table looked festive: crisp white cloth, posh napkins, three types of salad, meat and cheese platters, red caviar, home-made pickled mushrooms. The roast smouldered at the centre, mouth-watering.
Oliver sprawled back in his chair, scanning the spread. Victor fussed with the bottle of brandy, which hed bought yesterdayCourvoisier, five years old, not cheap.
To family! Victor declared, pouring a measure.
Oliver took the glass, swirled it, eyed the colour, sniffed it theatrically.
French? Armenian? he wrinkled his nose. I prefer a good Cognac, smoother bouquet. This stinks of ethanol. But never mindgift horse and all that
He downed it, not savoury, and reached straight for the expensive cold cuts. Gail watched him spear the priciest slice.
Help yourself, Oliver, she said, nudging the salad bowl towards him. Prawn and avocado salad, new recipe.
Oliver inspected a prawn, holding it up like a jeweller with a gemstone.
Frozen prawns? he asked knowingly.
Well, of coursetheyre from Tesco, king ones.
Rubbery, Oliver decided bluntly, tossing it back in the bowl. Gail, youve overcooked them. Two minutes in boiling water is all you need. These are like bootlaces. And your avocados underripecrunchy.
Victor froze with his spoon halfway to his mouth.
Oh come on, Ollie, its tasty! I tried it, its spot on.
Vic, youve got to develop your palate, Oliver lectured. If you eat substitutes all your life, youll never know true gastronomy. I was at a restaurant launch last weekhad scallop ceviche, incredible texture! Here Is the mayo homemade?
Gail felt heat rush to her cheeks. The mayo was just Hellmannsshe hadnt the time for whisking eggs and oils by hand.
Shop-bought, she replied flatly.
Figures, Oliver sighed as if hearing bad news. Vinegar, preservatives, starch. Absolute poison. Lets try your roast; hope thats not ruined at least.
Gail silently served up a large, juicy piece of pork, spooned over sauce, added oven-roasted potatoes with rosemary. The aroma shouldve made anyone drool. But Oliver, the connoisseur, was unmoved.
He chewed a piece slowly, staring at the ceiling while Gail and Victor watched, awaiting judgmentVictor with hopeful eyes, Gail with increasing loathing.
Dry, Oliver declared at last. Saucehoney wipes everything out. Far too sweet. Pork should taste like pork, Gail, not pudding. Marinated too short, fibres are tough. Shouldve sat in kiwi or sparkling water for a day.
I marinated it overnight, in spices and mustard, Gail said quietly. Everyones always liked it.
Well, everyonethey probably think carrot sticks are gourmet. Im just objective. You can eat it if youre starving but its nothing special.
He shoved the almost-untouched pork aside and reached for the mushrooms.
At least theseare they wild, or cheap tinned rubbish?
Wild, Gail said between clenched teeth. We picked and jarred them ourselves.
Oliver popped one in his mouth, grimaced.
Too much vinegar. Youll wreck your stomach. Loads of salt, too. Salts supposed to mean youre in love, isnt it? He chuckled at his own joke. Vic, mind your blood pressure with Gails cooking.
Victor laughed nervously, trying to lighten the mood.
Oh, theyre fine mateperfect snack with some vodka. More drinks, anyone?
They drank. Oliver flushed, untied his scarf, but didnt bother with his coatalmost as if making it clear he was only doing them a favour by being there.
What, you didnt get proper caviar? he grumbled, poking at a sandwich. This is the cheap stufftiny grains, too many membranes. Was it on offer?
Oliver, it’s Keta caviar, six grand a kilo, Gail retorted, her voice trembling. We bought a jar just for you. We never eat it ourselveswe save up.
Cutting corners on food is fatal, Oliver mused philosophically, wolfing down the bad caviar. We are what we eat. I never touch cheap sausagewould rather go hungry. You lot fill your fridge with rubbish from the clearance aisle, and then you wonder why youre tired and grey.
Gail looked at Victor. He sat, head down, chewing the pork pretending not to notice anything out of the ordinary. His silence hurt more than Olivers words. Once again, he chose to bury his head in the sand, just to avoid any fuss with dearest little brother.
Vic, Gail asked, do you think the roast is dry too?
Victor choked.
Um, no, its lovely, love. Really lovely. Its justOlivers got refined taste
Refined, Gail put her fork downthe clink loud as a gunshot. So Ive got coarse, clumsy taste. And Im a useless cook, serving up poison.
Gail, dont be dramatic, Oliver frowned. Im giving you constructive feedback, so you can grow and improve. You should thank me. Vic just eats everything and praises it, youve gotten comfortable. Women should strive for perfection.
Thank you? Gail repeated. You want thanks from me?
She rose from the table. The chair screeched on the floor like a warning.
Gail, where are you going? Victor asked in alarm. Weve barely started.
Im just getting dessert, she said oddly. Oliver does have a sweet tooth.
She went to the kitchen, where yesterday shed made her signature Napoleon cake until two in the morningtwelve paper-thin layers, creamy custard with real vanilla, made on free range yolks. She looked at the cake, then at the empty bin.
Her hands shook with anger. Years of swallowed resentment flooded over. How many times had he come, eaten, drunk, borrowed money and never repaid? Mocked the house, her clothes, her children? And Victor always let him, always excused him. Sensitive, artistic. But she had to be solid as a rock?
She didnt touch the cake. Instead, she picked up the tray and returned to the lounge.
Dessert at last? Olivers eyes lit up. Not one of those shop bought Swiss rolls, I hope?
Gail walked to the table and, calmly, began clearing away the dishes. First the roast. Then the rubbery prawn salad. Then the platter.
What are you doing? Oliver spluttered as the sandwiches disappeared from under his nose. I wasnt finished!
Why would you want to eat it? Gail replied coldly. Its all inedible. The roasts dry, the salads poisonous, the prawns are rubbery, the caviars horrible. I cant allow a valued guest to risk such filth. Id hate to be your enemy.
Victor leapt up.
Gail! Enough! Bring the food back! Apologise, now!
Gail set the tray onto the counter and looked him in the eye. No tears, just icy resolve.
Im the one embarrassing you? When you just sat there and let him humiliate me? she said. Are you a man or a doormat, Vic? He ate six pounds worth of caviar in five minutes and still griped. Have you ever bought me caviar just because? No. We save the best for company. And look what company does.
Hes my brother! My own blood!
And Im your wife! Ive washed your pants, cooked your meals, cleaned your house for ten years. Last night I stayed up half the night at the stove. For what? To hear Im useless? If you dont stop blaming me, that cakes going on your head.
Victor recoiled. Hed never seen her like thisGail was always mild, accommodating, easy. Now she was a fury, ready to destroy.
Oliver peeked in, looking more lost than haughty.
Well, this is a first for English hospitality, he muttered. Came here with an open heart and get scolded over a piece of bread.
Open heart, was it? Gail sneered. Where was the gift, the gesture? Not once in all these years have you brought anything to this house, even a packet of tea. You only show up to eat and criticise.
Im skint! Its just a rough patch!
Youve been on a rough patch twenty years. But youve still got a new coat, flashy scarf, turn up at show launches. Yet borrowing fifty quid off Vic and never paying it backsacred?
Stop it, Gail! Victor shouted. Dont count other peoples money!
Theyre not other peoples moneytheyre ours. Our familys. Money we could use for our children. So you can wine and dine this gourmet!
Oliver clutched his chest theatrically.
Thats enough. I wont stay another moment in this house. Vic, never thought youd marry such a shrew. Ill never set foot here again.
He stormed to the hall. Victor rushed after.
Ollie, wait! Dont listen to her, shes probably on her period, or had a bad day! Shell cool off!
No, mate, Oliver said, dramatically half into his shoes. This cant be unsaid. Im gone. And dont call me till she apologises.
The door slammed.
Victor stood in the hall, staring at the closed door as if his last hope had vanished. Then he turned and trudged to the kitchen, where Gail calmly scooped the roast into containers.
Happy now? he muttered. You drove my only brother away.
I got rid of a freeloader, she replied, not turning. Sit down and eat. The roasts still hot. Or is it too dry for you?
Victor slumped down, head in hands.
How could you? He was a guest
A guest should act like one, not an inspector from the council. Listen to me, Vic. Im done, do you hear? Never again will I lay out a spread for him. If you want to see him, go to his place. Or take him out. But pay for him yourself. My budget and my energy are done with him.
Youre cruel, Victor whispered.
Im fair. Eat. Or shall I clear away?
Victor eyed the juicy roast. His stomach rumbled. He took up his fork, sliced a bit, tasted it.
It was meltingly tendersweet, piquant, perfect.
Well? Gail asked, noticing his closed eyes as he chewed.
Its lovely, he admitted softly. Really lovely, Gail.
Good. Your brothers just a jealous layabout, seeking validation by tearing down others. When will you see it?
Victor chewed, thinking. For the first time, he wondered if Gail was right. He remembered Olivers empty hands, his tone, the awkwardness he always felt when Oliver judged his food.
And the cake? he asked suddenly. Are we having some?
Gail smiled for the first time that evening.
We are. Ill brew tea as wellthyme, just how you like it.
She brought out the towering Napoleon, sliced generous pieces. They sat together, drinking tea, eating cake, and slowly the tension slipped away.
You know, Victor said after his second helping, he didnt get mum a birthday present last monthsaid he was gift enough.
There you go, Gail nodded. Youre seeing it.
Victors mobile pingeda message from Oliver: Couldve sent me off with a couple sarnies, Im starving. Oh, and you owe me fifty quid for emotional damages.
Victor read the message aloudawkward silence followed. Gail raised an eyebrow.
And whatll you reply?
Victor looked at his wife, their cosy kitchen, the delicious cake. Then at his phone. Slowly, decisively, he typed: Try a restaurant, Mr Gourmet. No money here. Then hit block.
What did you say? Gail asked.
Just that were off to bed.
Gail let it pass, though shed seen his screen. She slipped her arms round his shoulders.
You did well, Vic. Even if it took a while.
That night, they realised something important about each othersometimes, to save your family, you have to remove the ones who hurt it, even if theyre related. And the roast was truly excellent, whatever empty-pocketed connoisseurs might claim.







